Bushwick’s Los Hermanos is that secret home in the wall nosh spot only locals know – apart from the fact that the New York Times spilling the (black) beans and naming it as one of the best.
Los Hermanos isn’t a place that exactly tries to stay hidden – the Frieda Kahlo mural and melamine statue of a cheery Mexican are kind of a giveaway. It’s more that it just doesn’t really need to try. The intrigue lies more in the dual purpose use of the space.
Beyond the stainless steel and glass counter, the former warehouse turned restaurant dining area still serves not only as a warehouse but as a taco tortilla factory. The kitschy regional flags and souvenir shop ephemera adds to an ambience that is completely overwhelmed by the clackity-clack cacophony coming from the taco generating equipment. Five Mexican workers spin flour like circus performers, ignoring customers filing past and oblivious to the fact they are still making tacos well after 7pm.
Los Hermanos is a cash only establishment. It’s completely no frills. To place an order, you have to write it down on an old library style catalogue card and hand it to the server.
There’s no hidden kitchen, the magic happens right at the counter. Within five to ten minutes you’ll be handed your fresh tacos on paper plate for consumption in the warehouse-come-dining room. The tacos are as authentic as you’ll find anywhere in New York and it’s testament to the establishment that it’s as popular with the local Hispanics as it is the hipsters.
Tip: the hot sauce is unbranded but comes in red or green: the scorching heat of the red will turn your tongue to “well done” the moment it hits your first taste bud and the green takes no prisoners, packing a punch that will have you reaching for your serviette – first to wipe away the tears and then to wave like a white flag of surrender.
Los Hermanos is a casual Mexican restaurant that is easy on the wallet and hard on the senses.
271 Starr St, Brooklyn, NY 11237